Island hopping is an essential part of the Greek experience. Visitors to Skiathos, the most cosmopolitan of the Northern Sporades islands, is ideally situated for hopping over to and exploring neighbouring Skopelos, in a half or full day. The name, Skopelos, means “cliff”, “rocky” or “reef” and, as you come sailing around the last island headland and enter the u-shaped port, you’ll see why. The centuries-old town of Skopelos rises up sharply from the sea and has the characteristic Greek island whitewashed houses, blue-framed windows and doors.
What to see and do
In spite of its quiet reputation, Skopelos has beaches (not as many as Skiathos though), museums, and the National Marine Park, which is the largest conservation area in Europe. It also has more than a hundred churches and monasteries, quiet extraordinary for a relatively small island. Restaurants and shops line the waterfront and there are ATMs.
Wander through Skopelos town by foot, moped or donkey. No cars are allowed. This is largely owing to the face that the old cobbled lanes are too small, quaintly so, which adds to the special ambience of the town. That said, road infrastructure does allow for car travel to and from other parts of the island.
Famous movie location
Most of the scenes for the hit movie, Mama Mia, were shot on Skopelos and Skiathos under the auspices of a fictional island called Kalokairi. Cast and crew stayed on Skopelos for a time, and some of the locals were extras in the movie. In fact, if you are an ardent Mama Mia fan, you might get a few pointers from the locals as to the spots frequented by some of your favourite characters (actors).
Getting there
There are various options for getting from Skiathos to Skopelos. All are by sea.
Flying Cat: Euro 16.50 (one way), Euro 33.00 (return)
Ferry: Economy Euro 9.50 (one way), Euro 19.00 (return); upper deck Euro 12.50 (one way), Euro 25 (return)
Day trip boats: With a guide approximately Euro 25.00 (return)
Boat charter: Depends on the number of people in your group and the time of year*
If you select the day trip option be sure to book the Agios Nikolaos and select a trip that includes Victoria Sandels (link to Victoria’s “Skiathos Traveller” site) as your guide. If going by ferry or the Flying Cat you are left to do your own thing. Whatever your preferred mode of getting there, do some research to familiarise yourself with Skopelos before leaving Skiathos. Get a map from the information cubicle on arrival in the port. On your walkabout look out for the toilets on balconies and be sure to try the famous tiropita, a large phyllo pastry stuffed with a deep fried spiral of cheese.
*Prices correct at time of publication.
Typically, when you think of Greek Islands, you think of endless beaches and chilled drinks with miniature umbrellas in them and you wouldn’t be wrong. Skiathos is such an island but it offers much more, including an extraordinary woodland adventure that’s more than just trees.
This magical forest walk as it’s aptly and popularly known by those in the know, starts just below the 18th century Kechria Monastery, which is worth a visit in its own right. In fact the four water and olive mills, the ruins of which can be seen along the walk, outdate the monastery by more than a thousand years.
So what makes it magical?
Imagine an enchanted wood with hollowed out ancient trunks and gnarled mystical tree roots. In fact some of the trees are so gnarled and hollow you can climb right into them. The ferns are especially tall and you can’t help but feel a little like Alice and the oversized chair in a forest wonderland.
Now picture the sun peaking through a virtually impenetrable canopy of lush foliage, nature’s little creatures whizzing past or fluttering gracefully about, patches of moss, lichen and floral groundcover. Add to this the fresh aroma of herbs growing wild in their bunches as you descend deeper into the hedgerow and you’ll have a fairly accurate image of what to expect. Note the emphasis on the word “fairly”. This is one of those rare occurrences where even the most beautiful photography cannot capture the special quality of the place.
Getting started
To get started, head off to Kechria Monastery in the early morning. It’s approximately eight kilometres from Skiathos Town. Best to go by vehicle and not on foot. The sun warms up quickly and blazes by late morning. It can get scorching in the open forest areas and incredibly humid in the dense woodland in spite of the latter’s shady canopy.
Need to know
Make sure you have a comfortable pair of walking shoes. Trainers will do. Take some bottled water, a sun hat and sunblock. There are no ablutions en route but the forest eventually opens out at Kechria Beach, where there is a taverna to have some lunch and rest your weary legs.
The walk can be quite taxing if you’re not moderately fit and takes approximately five hours at a leisurely pace. The path is marked every so often and generally cleared so that you can see where to go. While you might pass one other couple or a handful of nature enthusiasts, this walk is known for it’s unusual quiet tranquility so the sounds of the gurgling brook and nature are noticeably amplified. This makes it even more intimate. Skiathos Island’s magical faraway tree forest walk really is Elysium (Greek heaven) and should be top of the must do nature list.
On the slopes of the highest peak on Skiathos Island, you’ll find the most beautiful and arguably the most historically significant monastery of all the Northern Sporades islands. Set amid pine and cypress trees, visitors are immediately struck by the tranquility of the place.
You can get there by car or on foot. Either way it’s a lovely meander up the mountain. When entering the complex you can’t help but tread softly and conversation with companions drop to hushed, reverent whispers.
Important symbol of Greek pride
The first Greek flag with a white cross on a blue background was woven, blessed and hoisted for the first time at Evangelistria in 1807. It was on the very same flag that leaders of the revolution were sworn in and made plans to liberate the nation. Later, in the 1820s freedom fighters and refugees sought refuge here and the monastery provided material support and economic assistance to the revolutionaries.
What to look out for
Skilled craftsmen began construction in 1794 and the monastery was completed in 1806. Today, the buildings and grounds are well kept. The main church, a cruciform design covered by three high domes is in the centre of the monastery complex. It contains various wall illustrations and icons, which have both religious and artistic merit.
Monk-made wine
Pop into the little shop in which you can purchase Alypiakos wine made by the monks themselves from on site vines. Famous Greek writer, Alexander Papadiamantis wrote in his short story, “The Black Ignoramuses” that Alypiakos wine is “suitable to relieve the sadness and worries of the world” but you’ll need to try it and decide for yourself.
Entrance fees and other observances
Entrance to the complex is free but donations are appreciated. You are required to pay 2 Euro per person to enter the museum building but this is a measly sum for a worthy browse. The loom on which the first Greek flag was woven can be seen in the museum among other interesting pieces. Information is clearly marked in both English and Greek.
Also, so as not to cause offence, cover your shoulders and your legs at least to your knees. Wraps are readily available for this specific purpose and the dress code applies to both men and women.
There’s a café just above but separate to the monastery, which serves light refreshments and provides lovely views of the mountains, sea and nearby islands.
Best time to visit
Any historical and/or religious attraction is always best visited on your own or in small groups. Luckily, even in peak season, tourists never overrun Evangelistria. So you really do get to have a uniquely intimate experience. In addition to the complex being well preserved, the site of real life monks at a table in the courtyard adds to the authenticity of the place. In it’s relatively short existence, by ancient Greek monastery standards anyway, Evangelistria has witnessed human efforts to get closer to God and the Greek struggle for independence. Who knows what other secrets it harbors.
In the 14th century Skiathos island was plagued by regular pirate attacks from the notorious Saracens and others. So the island folk uprooted their lives in their little harbour town, took what they could carry and sought refuge on a cliff-top. They fortified themselves in a part natural, part manmade fortress on the northernmost part of Skiathos Island. The fortress became known as Kastro.
Death by hot oil
Today, there’s something spectacularly remote and dramatic about the site. Of its four sides, three with their sheer drop overlook the sea. The only access to the fourth side, which had high battlements in its day, was by means of a wooden drawbridge, which has since been replaced by a stone stairway.
An ideal lookout point, enemies could be spotted from a distance, the alarm would be sounded, and the drawbridge would be raised. Any pillagers who reached the steep climb to the iron entrance gate would have had hot oil poured over them. Kastro was virtually impenetrable.
Life was tough and unusually close-knit
With limited space, there were some 300 small, dark houses, built close together. The foundation remnants of some can still be seen today. There were 20 small churches, of which two survive along with parts of the fortress wall, an old cannon and the original iron-gate entrance. The cemetery was outside the fortress walls.
Also inside, large water tanks were always well stocked. In the event of a siege the inhabitants could survive and even thrive inside the Kastro for extended periods of time.
Testimony to the resilience of a proud people
Little pathways meander through what must have been a fairly insulated life. People lived here for hundreds of years. At one time occupied by the Venetians and then the Turks, Kastro was abandoned in 1830 after the War of Independence. Turkish occupation is a sore point for most Greeks and one cannot help but notice the Greek flag prominently and proudly displayed at Kastro’s highest lookout point.
How to get there
The most commanding visual approach is by sea. Kastro looms over the cliff top, which rises from the ocean to meet it. Daily boat excursions stop at the beach below. Do take a hat and don’t attempt it if you’re expecting a short, leisurely stroll to the top. It’s a fairly steep walk up stairs.
While largely overgrown, Kastro’s atmosphere is incredible, particularly if you have the space all to yourself. To avoid the crowds and the heat, you might prefer to take the inland approach by car, quad bike or scooter in the early morning or late afternoon. Regardless, Kastro is, undeniably, a must see experience for the whole family.
